This afternoon Miuccia Prada began to wrap up Paris Fashion Week with a collection that went one part Hansel and Gretel to one part performancewear on us, such was the mix of zipped-up parka styles - for skirts and bandeaus - with witchy striped tights and shoes, and Widow Twankey polka dots.
But it was a seriously clever and measured mix - the models like modern-day walking fairytale characters with their hair in little bun bunchies and their clompy platform shoes of that signature Prada wobbly dimension.
It was a collection that mostly took its cues from coats - be they belted dresses, slit and splaying at the front care of those zips, or little sailor styles with huge wide lapels that folded over the shoulder at the back. Each look came with a neckscarf, again stripes and polka dots (a mix and match we saw throughout), which added something rather jaunty, and quite right in terms of the attitude of the Miu Miu customer, the brand the younger counterpart to Prada. The zany tights too had this effect as did the huge big buttons on double-breasted coats that began the collection.
Skirt lengths ran longer than coats and zips ran the length of the body from high neck (something we've been seeing the whole show season long), to hem.
It was pretty in pink - and yellow and red - but it was also functional in navy and black.
Subversion is really Miuccia Prada's middle name but what was so great about this collection is that she did it in a fun way, last season's schoolgirl geek skin shed in favour of one that was a little more interested in fairy and folk tales - or rather utility folklore.
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