HEDI SLIMANE has a particular kind of girl in mind - she's the girl to the boy we saw at his Saint Laurentmenswear show in January and she's rocking just as much of the cool factor as he is and channeling just as many music influences too. She's LA effortless and belongs at Coachella all year round - oversized plaid shirts tapping into Nirvana teen spirit worn over dresses she was obviously out the night before in. That's what we got for Slimane's second outing at Saint Laurent this evening, just as anticipated as his first - and just as self-assured in its stylistic aesthetic, this time California grunge over last season's Seventies puritan.
This was for the young and a new generation of Saint Laurent customer - leather miniskirts and duffle coats, biker jackets and baby doll dresses, oversized cardigans over those little dresses, a splash of beads and embellishment and a constant sense of moody rebellion on parade.
When dissected there were some nice pieces but altogether it will be a hard collection for the traditional Yves Saint Laurent buyer and customer, so different is the output now that it's Saint Laurent. And as Saint Laurent it's very much Hedi's take, which is youthful and a certain type of cool to the core.
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